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Clothing Construction - Homescience Form 3

Clothing Construction Processes

In form 1 you learnt about textile fibres and their properties. You also learnt about sewing tools and equipment and stitches. This topic also builds on the following concepts learnt in form two:


1. Seams


2. Patterns and garment construction (apron)

Disposal of Fullness

Disposal of fullness is also refered to as 'management of fullness' or 'control of fullness'. It is defined as the process of arranging extra allowance of fabric in garment construction. It is done to:

  • Give shape to the garment
  • Introduce style features
  • Give a good fit to the garment
  • Decorate the garment
  • Allow for growth

Objectives

By the end of the lesson, you should be able to:

  • State the reasons for disposal of fullness.
  • Describe the processes of disposal of fullness.





Methods of Disposing Fullness

In garment construction the methods of disposing fullness include:

Darts

A dart can either be single or double pointed. They are usually worked on the wrong side. They are commonly used at the waist, bust and shoulders.


Gathers

Gathers are made by forming ruffles on fabrics and are best worked on fine fabrics. They are worked on waists of skirts, shorts and trousers, yokes, crowns and wrists of sleeves. Gathers can be worked by hand or machine.


Pleats

A pleat is formed by folding the fabric to form three layers. These layers are: Surface (1), under fold (2), base (3). The pleats are held into position by a band or seam. There are three main types of pleats. These include:

  • Knife pleat
  • Box pleat
  • Inverted pleat

Knife pleat

A knife pleat is any single pleat with the fold facing any direction.


Inverted pleats

These are made by working two pleats with the folds meeting on the right side (RS).


Box Pleat

This is made by working two pleats with the folds meeting on the Wrong Side (WS)


Tucks

A tuck is a fold of fabric stitched through the double fabric on the right side. There are three main types of tucks:

  • Pin tucks
  • Wider tucks
  • Shell tucks

Elasticating (Use of Elastic)

Elastic is a type of rubber material that can stretch. It is used on waists of skirts, shorts, dresses, pants and slips. Elastic can be stitched directly onto the edge of an article or inserted in a casing.


Pockets

A pocket is a bag like feature on a garment used for holding small items among others handkerchief, money, pen. Pockets vary in size and shape depending on their purpose and position on the garment. The different pockets are patch, in-seam, welt, bound and pocket cut as part of the garment.

Objectives

By the end of the of the lesson you should be able to discuss the process of making in-seam and patch pockets.

Patch Pockets

A patch pocket is a shaped piece of fabric that is stitched flat onto the right side of a garment with an opening at the top. The shapes include round, square and V-shape.

Procedure of Making a Round Patch Pocket


In-Seam Pockets

In this pocket, two pocket pieces are joined to the seam turnings on the inside of the pocket mouth. They are stitched together to form a bag which is pressed towards the front and reinfoced at the top and bottom of the pocket mouth.

Procedure of Working the In-seam Pocket


Interfaced Waistband

A waistband is a firm band used to finish and hold waists of skirts, trousers and shorts firmly. It is usually stiffened with interfacing to keep it flat, strong and prevent stretching.

Objectives

By the end of the lesson, you should be able to prepare and attach an interfaced waistband correctly.

Procedure of Making an Interfaced Waistband


Attaching the Waistband

A waistband is attached to waistline by a plain seam.

Procedure of Attaching a Waistband


Openings

An opening is a gap created in a garment for easy wearing and removal. The choice of an opening will be determined by; type of garment; type of fabric; position of the opening on the garment and the type of fastening required.


Types of Openings


There are many types of openings. They include:

  • Faced slit opening
  • Bound opening
  • Continuous wrap opening
  • Front opening
  • Zipped opening
  • Fly opening

In this lesson only two of these openings are covered:

  • Faced slit opening
  • Continuous wrap opening

Objectives

By the end of the lesson, you should be able to:


1. State the factors that determine the choice of opening


2. Describe and make a:

  • Continous wrap opening
  • Faced slit opening

Continuous Wrap Opening


This opening can be inserted in a slit or in a seam.


Procedure of Making a Continous Wrap Opening


Faced slit opening

This opening is made by making a slit/slash into garment and is neatened using a facing.

Procedure of Making a Faced slit opening


Fastenings

Fastenings are devices used to close openings on garments and articles. Fasteners are of various types. They include:


  • Buttons and buttonholes/ loops
  • Hooks and eyes/bars/loops
  • Zips
  • Press studs
  • Velcro tapes

The fastenings covered in this lesson are:

  • Button and hand worked loop
  • Concealed zip

Objectives

By the end of the of the lesson you should be able to:

  • Attach a button
  • Work a concealed zip and a loop

Procedure for Attaching a Button


Loops

Loops are worked at the edge of an opening to be fastened with a button. The types of loops include:

  • Worked loops
  • Rouleau loops

Roll over each to view the photos

In this lesson, you will cover the worked loop.

Procedure of Making a Worked Loop


Zip Fastening

Some methods of attaching a zip are; concealed, semi-concealed, invisible and conspicuous. In this lesson you will cover the concealed.

Concealed Method


Concealed method is where the zip is not seen at all on the Right Side but one row is stitching shows down one side and across the bottom.

Procedure of Attaching a Concealed Zip


Making a Skirt and a pair of Shorts


In this lesson, you are expected to apply knowledge and skills acquired so far in Form 1, 2 and 3 to make a skirt, a pair of shorts or a pair of trousers for your course work. You will need the following:


  • Pattern pieces for a skirt/ a pair of shorts
  • Fabric
  • Matching thread
  • Fasteners
  • Needlework tools and equipment

Objectives

By the end of the lesson, you should be able to apply the clothing construction processes to make a skirt or a pair of shorts.

Order of Making a Skirt or Short

  • Prepare pattern pieces and fabric
  • Lay the pattern pieces onto fabric along the straight grain of fabric
  • Cut out pattern pieces
  • Transfer pattern markings onto fabric and remove pattern pieces from fabric
  • Dispose fullness
  • Make the pockets
  • Make the seam where the zip will be attached
  • Attach the zip
  • Make the rest of the seams
  • Prepare and fix the waistband
  • Fix the fasteners
  • Manage the hems
  • Press the completed work

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