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Clothing Construction Processes - Homescience Form 4

Clothing Construction Processes


This topic builds on the clothing construction concepts covered in form 1, 2 and 3. It is important to understand the clothing construction processes in order to come up with garments that are well fitting. In this topic we shall cover the following:


  • Collars

  • Cuffs

  • Set- in sleeves

  • Facing and Interfacing

  • Construction of a shirt






Collars

Collars are features that are fitted at the neckline to add style and appeal to the garment. There are many types of collars which include:

Objectives


By the end of the lesson, you should be able to:

1. Identify different types of collars

2. Prepare and attach collars correctly

Procedure of Preparing a Shirt Collar

Attaching the Collar


Collars are attached using the following methods:

1. Self neatening

2. Using a facing

3.Using a cross-way strip

4. Using a band

In this topic, we shall cover two methods:

1. Self neatening method

2. Using a cross-way strip

Attaching the shirt collar using the self neatening method



1. With the raw edges level, fitting lines, centre back and notches matching, place the right side of under collar on the right side of garment leaving the upper collar free, pin and tack along the fitting line

2. Remove the pins and machine along the tacking

3. Remove the tacking, trim the seam allowance to 6mm and snip

4. Trim the seam allowance of the upper collar to 1cm. fold along the fitting line to the wrong side

5. Pin and tack ensuring the raw edges are enclosed

6. Remove the pins and hem in position

7. Remove the tacking and press

Attaching a peter pan collar using the cross-way strip

Sleeves

A sleeve is a part of a garment that is attached at the armhole and covers all or part of the arm. Sleeves can either be set-in or cut as part of the garment. In this topic, we shall only cover the set-in sleeves.

Objectives

By the end of the lesson, you should be able to:
1.Identify different types of sleeves.
2. Prepare and set-in sleeves correctly.

Types of sleeves


Click for more information

Preparation of a set-in sleeve


The following is a pattern of a sleeve showing the pattern markings:

The procedure of preparing a set-in sleeve

Setting in a sleeve

When setting in a sleeve, ensure the left sleeve is attached to the left armhole while the right sleeve is attached to the right armhole. The following is the procedure of setting in a sleeve.

Cuffs


A cuff is a method of finishing the lower edge of a sleeve. There are two main types of cuffs:


  • Shaped
  • Straight

Objective


By the end of the lesson, you should be able to prepare and attach a cuff correctly.

Preparation of a straight cuff with an interfacing

Procedure of attaching the cuff

Facings


A facing is a piece of fabric used to finish raw edges at open areas of a garment. They are applied on the wrong side or right side of the garment. Facings have a decorative effect when a contrasting colour of fabric is used on the right side. They are used on the following sections of a garment:


  • Neckline
  • Pocket mouth
  • Armhole
  • Front and back opening
  • Waistline of skirts, trousers
  • Lower edges of trousers, skirts, shirts, sleeve

Objectives


By the end of the lesson, you should be able to:

1. Identify types of facings

2. Prepare facings

3. State functions of facings

Types of facings


There are three types of facings:


  • Straight facings
  • Crossway Facing
  • Shaped Facings

Straight facings

The facing is cut on the straight grain of fabric and the section to be faced is straight. For example, the top of a pocket at a square neckline at the hem edge of a straight skirt or at front and back openings on shirts and blouses.

Crossway Facings

The facing is cut on true bias. It can be used on both straight and curved edges but is particularly suitable for curved edges as it stretches to lie flat.

Shaped facings

The facing is cut the same shape as the edge to be finished. The are usally wider than the straight and the crossway facings Seam allowance is included when cutting out.

Procedure of working facings

Objective

By the end of the lesson, you should be able to apply the clothing construction processes to make a shirt.

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